Chicken Feeding Guide: What to Feed Your Flock at Every Stage of Life

Feeding chickens well is one of the simplest things you can do to keep your flock healthy, productive, and happy. A hen that eats the right feed lays more eggs, grows stronger feathers, fights off illness more easily, and lives longer. The good news is that chicken nutrition is not complicated. Once you understand the basics, you can set up a feeding system that runs almost on autopilot.

This guide covers everything you need to know about feeding backyard chickens. We will walk through the right feed for every life stage, explain the supplements that actually matter, sort out which treats are safe and which are not, go over feeding equipment, and help you figure out how much all of this will cost each month. Whether you have three hens in a suburban backyard or thirty birds on a small homestead, the principles are the same.

Let us get your flock eating right.

Understanding Chicken Nutrition

Chickens are omnivores. In the wild, their ancestors ate seeds, insects, worms, greens, berries, and small lizards. A backyard flock eats a commercially formulated feed as the foundation of their diet, plus whatever they find while foraging, plus whatever you toss into the run as a treat.

The commercial feed is where the real nutrition comes from. It is formulated by animal nutritionists to deliver the exact balance of protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, and minerals that chickens need at each stage of life. Think of it the same way you think about a balanced human diet. The feed is the main course. Everything else is a side dish.

There are three key nutrients to understand.

Protein is the building block of feathers, muscles, and eggs. Chicks need the most protein because they are growing fast. Laying hens need a steady supply because every egg contains about 6 grams of protein. When protein is too low, egg production drops, feathers look dull, and birds lose weight.

Calcium is what builds eggshells. A laying hen uses about 2 grams of calcium every time she forms an egg. Without enough calcium, shells get thin, soft, or missing entirely. Too much calcium too early in life can damage a young bird's kidneys. This is why chicks and pullets eat a different feed than laying hens.

Energy comes from carbohydrates and fats in the feed. Chickens need energy to stay warm, move around, digest food, and produce eggs. In cold weather, energy needs go up. In hot weather, appetites drop and you may need to adjust.

A good commercial feed handles all of this for you. Your job is to pick the right feed for the right life stage and then offer a few key supplements on the side.

The Three Feeds Every Chicken Keeper Needs to Know

Commercial chicken feed comes in three main formulas. Each one is designed for a specific age group. Using the right feed at the right time is the single most important thing you can do for your flock's nutrition.

Chick Starter Feed (Day 1 to Week 6)

Chick starter is the first feed your birds will ever eat. It is high in protein, usually around 20 to 22 percent, and low in calcium. The high protein supports the rapid growth that happens in the first weeks of life. Chicks double and triple in size during this period, and they need every bit of that protein to build feathers, bones, and muscle.

Starter feed comes as a fine crumble, which is easy for tiny beaks to pick up. You will find two versions at most feed stores: medicated and unmedicated. The medicated version contains a small amount of amprolium, which helps prevent coccidiosis. Coccidiosis is a gut parasite that thrives in damp bedding and can be fatal to young chicks. If your chicks were not vaccinated for coccidiosis at the hatchery, medicated starter is a smart choice. If they were vaccinated, use unmedicated starter instead, since the medication can interfere with the vaccine.

Keep starter feed available at all times. Chicks eat small amounts frequently throughout the day and they do best when they can help themselves whenever they are hungry. A small chick feeder with a narrow trough works well for the first few weeks.

Store your feed in a sealed container away from moisture, heat, and mice. A metal trash can with a tight lid is the classic homestead feed bin. Do not let feed sit for longer than about six weeks after opening, since the vitamins and fats start to break down over time.

Grower Feed (Week 6 to First Egg)

Once your chicks hit about six weeks old, switch to grower feed. This formula has slightly less protein, usually around 16 to 18 percent, and still has low calcium. The reduced protein matches the slower growth rate of adolescent birds. The low calcium protects their developing kidneys.

The transition from starter to grower does not need to be dramatic. You can mix the two feeds for a few days or simply switch when you open the next bag. Chickens handle feed changes well as long as the transition is gradual.

Grower feed also comes as a crumble, though some brands offer a pellet version for older pullets. Either form works fine.

Your birds will stay on grower feed until they start laying, which usually happens between 18 and 24 weeks of age depending on the breed. Do not rush the switch to layer feed. Wait until you see the first egg. Starting layer feed too early puts unnecessary calcium into a young bird's system and that calcium has to go somewhere. In growing birds, it can cause kidney damage over time.

Layer Feed (First Egg Onward)

Layer feed is the long term daily diet for your laying hens. It runs around 16 percent protein and includes 3 to 4 percent calcium to support eggshell formation. This is the feed your hens will eat for the rest of their productive lives.

Layer feed comes in three forms: pellets, crumble, and mash.

Pellets are compressed cylinders of feed. They are the most popular choice because they waste the least. Hens pick up a pellet, eat it, and move on. Very little ends up on the ground.

Crumble is pellet feed that has been broken into smaller pieces. Some hens prefer it, especially smaller breeds. It wastes a bit more than pellets because the fine pieces scatter when hens dig through the feeder.

Mash is an unprocessed, flour like mix. It is the cheapest option but also the messiest. Mash tends to get damp, dusty, and wasted. Most backyard keepers skip mash unless they are mixing their own feed.

For most small flocks, pellets are the best all around choice. They are clean, easy to store, and waste less feed over the course of a year.

Supplements That Actually Matter

A good layer feed covers most of your flock's nutritional needs. But there are two supplements that every chicken keeper should offer, and a third that helps during specific situations.

Oyster Shell

Oyster shell is crushed, calcium rich shell material that you offer in a small dish or hopper next to the feeder. Hens that are actively laying will eat it when they need extra calcium for eggshell production. Hens that are not laying, and any roosters in the flock, will leave it alone.

Even though layer feed contains calcium, some hens need more than the feed provides. This is especially true for high production breeds that lay five or six eggs per week. Without enough calcium, you will start seeing thin shells, soft shells, or eggs with no shell at all.

Oyster shell is inexpensive. A bag lasts a long time. Keep a small dish full at all times and let your hens self regulate. This is one of those set it and forget it supplements that pays for itself in stronger eggshells.

Grit

Grit is small, hard stones that chickens swallow and store in their gizzard. The gizzard is a muscular organ in the digestive tract that grinds food. Since chickens do not have teeth, the grit does the job of chewing for them.

If your chickens free range on natural ground, they will pick up small stones and sand as they forage. In that case, you probably do not need to offer supplemental grit. But if your flock lives in a run with a soft or bare floor, or if you feed a lot of whole grains, scratch, or kitchen scraps, offering grit free choice is a good idea.

Grit comes in two sizes. Chick grit is very fine, about the size of sand grains, and is meant for birds under eight weeks. Adult grit is larger, about the size of small pebbles, and is meant for fully grown birds.

Like oyster shell, you can offer grit in a small dish next to the feeder. Chickens take what they need and leave the rest.

Apple Cider Vinegar

Some chicken keepers add a splash of raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar to their flock's water. The idea is that it supports gut health by promoting beneficial bacteria and creating a mildly acidic environment in the digestive tract.

The evidence on this is mostly anecdotal. There are no large scale studies proving that ACV improves chicken health. But many experienced keepers swear by it, and it does no harm in small amounts.

If you want to try it, add about one tablespoon of raw ACV per gallon of water. Do not use ACV in metal waterers, since the acid will corrode the metal over time. Plastic or rubber waterers are fine.

Treats, Kitchen Scraps, and What to Avoid

Treats are one of the best parts of keeping chickens. Your hens will come running when they hear the back door open. Watching a flock demolish a watermelon rind or chase each other for a mealworm never gets old.

But treats need to stay in their lane. The general rule is that no more than 10 percent of your flock's daily diet should come from treats and scraps. The other 90 percent should be their balanced commercial feed. When treats start to crowd out the feed, nutrition suffers, egg production drops, and birds gain weight.

Safe Treats Your Chickens Will Love

Here is a list of treats that are safe and nutritious for chickens in moderate amounts.

Vegetables and greens. Lettuce, kale, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, corn on the cob, squash, zucchini, pumpkin, and cucumbers are all excellent choices. Leafy greens are especially good because they add vitamins and keep hens busy pecking.

Fruits. Watermelon, cantaloupe, berries, grapes (cut in half), apples (remove seeds), bananas, and pears. Watermelon is a summer favorite because it helps birds stay hydrated in the heat.

Grains and seeds. Oatmeal, cooked rice, cooked pasta, sunflower seeds (unsalted), and pumpkin seeds. These are calorie dense, so keep portions small.

Protein treats. Mealworms are the gold standard. Chickens go absolutely wild for them. Scrambled eggs (yes, chickens can eat eggs) and plain yogurt are also good protein sources, especially during molt when birds need extra protein to regrow feathers.

Garden and yard scraps. Weeds, grass clippings (in small amounts, not treated with chemicals), dandelion greens, and clover.

Scratch Grain

Scratch grain is a mix of cracked corn, wheat, and other whole grains. It is sold at every feed store and chickens love it. But scratch is not a complete feed. It is low in protein and does not contain the vitamins and minerals that a balanced feed provides.

Think of scratch as the chicken equivalent of candy. It tastes great and gives quick energy, but it should not replace a meal.

A small handful of scratch tossed into the run is a wonderful enrichment tool. It gives your hens something to forage for and keeps them busy. In winter, a late afternoon handful of scratch or cracked corn gives birds extra calories to burn as body heat through a cold night. In summer, cut back on scratch since the heat generated by digesting corn can push birds toward overheating.

Foods That Are Dangerous

Not everything in your kitchen is safe for chickens. Some common foods can cause illness or death. Memorize this short list and keep it posted near the coop.

Avocado pits and skins contain persin, which is toxic to chickens. The flesh is generally considered safe in small amounts, but most keepers avoid avocado entirely to be safe.

Raw or dried beans contain a toxin called phytohaemagglutinin that can be fatal. Cooked beans are fine.

Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to most animals including chickens.

Onions in large amounts can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. A small scrap is not dangerous, but do not feed onions regularly.

Salty or heavily processed foods can cause salt toxicity. Skip the chips, pretzels, and fast food leftovers.

Citrus is debated. Small amounts are probably fine, but large quantities may reduce calcium absorption. Most keepers keep citrus out of the coop to be safe.

Moldy or rotten food of any kind should never go to the chickens. Mold produces mycotoxins that can cause serious illness.

Nightshade plant leaves and stems. Tomato fruits are fine, but the leaves, stems, and green parts of tomato plants, potatoes, and peppers contain solanine, which is toxic. Ripe tomato flesh, cooked potatoes, and ripe pepper flesh are all safe.

When in doubt, leave it out. Your compost pile is a better home for questionable scraps than your chicken run.

How Much Feed Does a Chicken Eat?

A full grown laying hen eats about a quarter pound of feed per day. That is roughly one third of a cup per bird per day, or about 1.75 pounds per bird per week.

Here is a quick reference for common flock sizes.

These numbers are averages. Feed consumption goes up in cold weather because birds burn more calories to stay warm. It goes down in hot weather because appetites drop. Heavier breeds eat more than lighter breeds. Free ranging birds eat slightly less commercial feed because they supplement with bugs, seeds, and greens they find outside.

The best approach is to offer feed free choice. Fill a hanging or treadle feeder and let your hens eat as much as they want throughout the day. Chickens self regulate remarkably well. They eat when they are hungry and stop when they are full. You do not need to measure exact portions or ration their food.

The one exception is if you notice birds getting visibly overweight, which sometimes happens with confined flocks that get too many treats. In that case, cut back on treats first. If the problem continues, talk with a poultry savvy vet or extension agent about adjusting the feeding setup.

Feeders and Watering Systems

The right equipment makes feeding your flock easier, cleaner, and more cost effective. A well chosen feeder wastes less feed, keeps food dry, and keeps mice and wild birds from stealing your grain.

Types of Feeders

Hanging tube feeders are the most popular choice for small flocks. They hang from a chain or hook at the height of the birds' backs. Hanging the feeder keeps it out of the bedding and makes it harder for birds to scratch feed onto the ground. Tube feeders hold anywhere from 5 to 25 pounds of feed depending on the size.

Treadle feeders are weight activated. A hen steps on a plate at the base and the lid lifts to reveal the feed. When she steps off, the lid closes. Treadle feeders are excellent at keeping out wild birds, mice, and rats. They also keep feed dry in wet weather. The upfront cost is higher, but they pay for themselves in reduced feed waste over time.

Trough feeders are simple, open top feeders that work well for small flocks. The downside is that birds can scratch feed out and wild birds can eat from them freely. If waste is not a problem, trough feeders are cheap and easy.

PVC pipe feeders are a popular DIY option. A large diameter PVC pipe holds several pounds of feed and gravity feeds it into a small opening at the bottom. They are easy to build, easy to clean, and work well for moderate sized flocks.

Whatever feeder you choose, keep it clean. Dump and rinse the feeder every week or two. Do not let wet or moldy feed accumulate in the bottom.

Water Systems

Clean water is just as important as good feed. A laying hen drinks about a pint of water per day in mild weather. In the heat of summer, that can double or triple. Even a single day without water can cause a hen to stop laying for weeks.

Hanging waterers work well for small flocks. They hang at back height and hold one to five gallons. Refresh the water at least once a day, more often in hot weather. Scrub the waterer with a brush and a splash of white vinegar once a week.

Horizontal nipple waterers are a step up in cleanliness. They use small metal nipples that drip water when a chicken taps them. The water stays sealed inside a bucket or PVC pipe, which means no algae, no debris, and no poop in the water. Most chickens learn to use nipples within a few minutes.

Cup waterers are similar to nipples but fill a small cup when triggered. They are slightly easier for chickens to learn than nipples and provide a slightly larger volume of water.

In winter, keeping water from freezing is a real chore. A heated base designed for poultry waterers solves the problem if you have electricity at the coop. If not, you can swap fresh, warm water twice a day. Chickens drink more warm water in winter, which helps them eat enough feed to stay warm.

Feeding Through the Seasons

Your flock's nutritional needs shift with the seasons. Small adjustments throughout the year keep birds healthy, productive, and comfortable.

Spring

Spring is egg season. Days are getting longer, appetites are strong, and hens are laying at full speed. This is the easiest season for feeding. Keep layer feed full, oyster shell available, and water fresh. If your birds are on pasture, they will start finding bugs and greens on their own, which adds variety and nutrition.

If you are adding chicks to the flock in spring, remember to keep chick starter in the brooder. Do not let chicks eat layer feed. The calcium content is too high for growing birds.

Summer

Heat suppresses appetite. In the worst of summer, your hens may eat noticeably less than usual. This is normal. Do not force extra feed. Instead, focus on keeping water cold and available. Add ice to waterers on the hottest days. Offer watery treats like watermelon and cucumber to help with hydration.

Cut back on scratch grain and corn during heat waves. Both generate body heat during digestion and can push an already warm bird into heat stress.

If egg production drops in extreme heat, do not panic. It usually bounces back when temperatures cool down.

Fall

Fall brings two big nutritional events: shorter days and the annual molt.

As daylight hours drop below about 14 hours, egg production slows. Some keepers add supplemental light to the coop to extend the laying season. Others let their hens rest naturally. Either approach is fine.

Molt is when hens shed old feathers and grow new ones. It usually happens in early to mid fall and lasts six to twelve weeks. During molt, a hen's body redirects protein from egg production to feather growth. Laying often stops entirely.

You can support your flock through molt by temporarily switching to a higher protein feed. A grower feed at 18 percent protein, or a game bird feed at 20 percent, gives hens the extra protein they need to regrow feathers faster. Add a handful of mealworms or black oil sunflower seeds as a protein rich treat.

Once new feathers are in and laying resumes, switch back to layer feed.

Winter

Cold weather increases calorie needs. Chickens burn more energy staying warm, especially on long, cold nights. Make sure feeders are always full. A bird that runs out of feed on a freezing night is a bird that gets cold fast.

A late afternoon handful of scratch grain or cracked corn gives birds a calorie boost before bedtime. The heat generated during digestion helps keep birds warm through the night. This is one of the oldest and most practical chicken keeping traditions.

Keep water from freezing. Dehydrated birds stop eating, and a bird that stops eating in winter is in trouble. A heated waterer base is worth every penny in cold climates.

If your coop is well ventilated and your birds are cold hardy breeds, they should not need any extra care beyond full feeders, unfrozen water, and a thick layer of bedding.

Feeding Costs and Budgeting

Feed is the single largest ongoing expense of keeping chickens. The good news is that it is predictable and manageable.

A 50 pound bag of quality layer feed costs between $15 and $25 depending on the brand and whether it is conventional or organic. Organic feed runs roughly 50 to 100 percent more than conventional.

Here is a rough monthly feed budget for common flock sizes, using conventional layer feed.

Add a few dollars a month for oyster shell, grit, and occasional treats. The total is still modest. A flock of six laying hens costs about the same per month as a single takeout dinner.

If budget is tight, there are a few ways to stretch your feed dollar.

Buy in bulk. Some feed stores offer discounts on full pallets or multiple bag purchases. If you have the storage space, buying several bags at once can save 10 to 15 percent.

Reduce waste. A hanging or treadle feeder wastes far less than an open trough. Every pound of feed that ends up on the ground instead of in a chicken's crop is money lost.

Let them forage. Free ranging birds supplement their diet with bugs, seeds, and greens. This reduces commercial feed consumption and improves egg quality at the same time.

Grow supplemental greens. A small patch of sunflowers, kale, or clover near the run provides free, nutritious forage for your flock.

Avoid overfeeding treats. Treats are fun but they add up. Mealworms especially can get expensive if you go overboard. A small handful a few times a week is plenty.

Common Feeding Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Most feeding mistakes are easy to make and even easier to fix. Here are the ones that trip up new chicken keepers most often.

Switching to layer feed too early. Young pullets should not eat layer feed until they lay their first egg. The extra calcium in layer feed can damage developing kidneys. Stick with grower feed until you see that first egg in the nest box.

Skipping the oyster shell. Layer feed contains calcium, but some hens need more than the feed provides. Without supplemental oyster shell, you will start seeing thin and soft shells. Keep a small dish of oyster shell available at all times. It is cheap insurance.

Overfeeding treats. A flock that fills up on scratch grain, mealworms, and kitchen scraps will eat less of their balanced feed. That means less protein, fewer vitamins, and fewer eggs. Keep treats under 10 percent of the daily diet.

Letting feed get wet or moldy. Damp feed grows mold, and mold produces toxins that can make chickens very sick. Store feed in a dry, sealed container. If feed in the feeder gets wet from rain or a leaky waterer, dump it and refill with fresh feed.

Using the wrong feeder height. A feeder that sits on the ground gets scratched full of bedding and droppings. Hang or elevate the feeder to the height of your birds' backs. This keeps the feed cleaner and reduces waste.

Forgetting about water. Chickens drink more than you expect, especially in summer. A hen that runs out of water for even a few hours may stop laying for days or weeks. Check water levels twice a day and scrub waterers weekly.

Feeding table scraps as a primary diet. Kitchen scraps are a treat, not a meal plan. Chickens need the balanced nutrition that only a formulated feed provides. Scraps are great in small amounts, but they cannot replace a proper layer feed.

Putting It All Together

Feeding chickens well comes down to a few simple habits. Buy the right feed for the right life stage. Keep it available at all times in a clean feeder. Offer oyster shell and grit on the side. Keep water fresh and accessible. Limit treats to about 10 percent of the diet. Adjust for the seasons.

That is the whole system. It takes about five minutes a day once you have it set up.

Your hens will reward you with strong shells, rich yolks, and steady production. Your feed bill will stay predictable. And the morning routine of filling the feeder, topping off the water, and tossing a handful of greens into the run will become one of those quiet homestead moments you look forward to every day.

If you are still choosing your first birds, our chicken breed comparison directory has detailed profiles on 30 popular breeds. If you want help figuring out the full cost of starting a flock, check out the feed cost calculator to get a realistic monthly number for your flock size. And if you are brand new to chickens, our complete guide to raising chickens covers everything from coop design to predator protection.

You have got this. Start with good feed, and everything else gets easier.